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Cultural Tactics or the Hammer of Thought

Let us start our journey at the base of the pyramid with the cultural methods.  This tactic works by minimizing the conditions necessary for the pests to survive.  Plant selection is key in the part of the pyramid.  Select plants for the conditions.  Don’t install or design for long-term problems.  If the plant is susceptible to Phytopthora, don’t plant it next to a lawn.  If a plant is susceptible to powdery mildew, look for a cultivar that is resistant.   If a plant needs good drainage, don’t install it in the clay soils.  Don’t plant lawn around oak trees, not even near them.  This is the most blatantly violated and the simplest rule here. And don’t use drip on natives.  It kills them, period.  Call me or E-mail me if you want to know why.

After the correct plant is installed, give it the conditions it needs to survive.  Strong plants resist diseases, are less susceptible to insect attacks, and will outgrow the weeds.

Physical Tactics or the Hammer of the Corporeal

Physical methods include traps, barriers, mowing, tillage, or any other method that physically removes the pest.  Hand weeding to suppress seed formation, trapping insects in pheromone traps or by using “sticky foot,” vacuuming white fly with a dust buster, putting in snail and slug traps, and using trap plants are all viable and worthwhile strategies in this category.  Pruning is also in this category.  It is as simple as pruning a disease branch before it infects the rest of the plant.  Flaming weeds belongs here.  You can make a very effective flamer by using an old golf cart, a propane tank, and some miscellaneous fittings.  It works very well, but make sure that you have a water-based fire extinguisher on hand.

Look back to the pyramid.  We have just passed the threshold of prevention and we are now in the intervention phase of the process.  As we go towards the tip prevention drops out completely and we are in full intervention.  That is when the problems really begin.

Biological Tactics or the Hammer of Evolution

This category uses predators, parasites, and nematodes in a very targeted way to suppress the pests. Using microbial diseases of pests is a registered method of pest control.  An example of this method is the use of a fungus that kills another fungus. Using insect releases to attack pest plants or other pest insects is part of the biological tactics.  Everyone has heard of using ladybug releases to control aphids.  Most people don’t know how to keep them around long enough to do their job.  And then they get discouraged because it doesn’t work. I do know how and I am not telling you here how to do it.  I want to hear from you to see if you are reading this stuff.  E-mail me at niccolifrancis@fhda.edu and I will reveal all.  A look back at the triangle and you will notice that intervention has taken a step up.

Chemical tactics or the Hammer of Disruption

Look at the Pyramid.  You will see two distinct delineations in this area.  The first is the bio-rational section.  These chemicals are less toxic and are usually used to target a specific pest or problem.  Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control tussock oak moth, diatomaceous earth to desiccate fleas, Bacillus thuringiensis israeliensis (Bti) to control mosquitoes, pheromones baits used with stick traps to catch insects, pheromones released to confuse the target insect, and chemicals such as neem oil that is so bitter that it makes the plant inedible to the insect.  Most of the chemicals in this category are anti-feedants, repellants, or attractants and are usually very low in toxicity.

The second part of this section of the pyramid is the conventional pesticides.  They are synthetically produced compounds that are direct toxins.  Unfortunately, these same toxins are non-specific and usually kill anything they are sprayed on.  They are chemical missiles that kill without regard.  They are also toxic to bees, fish, humans, and your pets.  They should be your last resort.  Use these very sparingly.  Try one method on the lower end of the pyramid before using this category.  An example of this is trying to control Bermuda grass.  Use black plastic to cover the Bermuda grass before resorting to a chemical. This will reduce significantly the amount of chemical that you need to use.  And by the way, Round-up is not the best chemical to use in killing Bermuda grass.  Guess what. You’ll have to E-mail me to get my method and the name of the chemical.

That’s all for me this month.  I will see you next time with some further advice on IPM.

Frank Niccoli
niccolifrancis@fhda.edu

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